Licorice Root Extract is also called Glycyrrhiza Glabra.
It reduces pigmentation on our skin by working in 3 different ways:
Licorice Root Extract has two compounds that help fight pigmentation. These two compounds fight pigmentation in 2 different ways. The two compounds are:
Licorice Root Extract and its Anti-Pigment Function
1. By inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme
Melanin is a pigment found in the skin. It is produced in the deeper skin layers and then transferred to the top layer.
Melanin gives skin its colour. It also protects our skin from harmful irritants, especially the sun’s rays.
When skin is exposed to harmful irritants, its defence mechanism kicks in. The pigment melanin plays a vital role in this defence mechanism. So, the tyrosinase enzyme, which helps produce melanin, goes into overdrive and starts producing additional melanin.
But unfortunately, only a certain amount of melanin can provide the protection benefit. Once that certain amount has been reached, any additional melanin produced is of not much use in protective function. This melanin is just excess. But tyrosinase enzyme doesn’t know this. They continue to help produce melanin as long as the skin is inflammed.
The excess melanin produced is transferred to the cells in the visible layer, where it is deposited. These deposits are usually much darker than the surrounding skin. They get the dark colour because melanin deposits have an intense, dark colour. These deposits give skin an uneven skin tone. This is what is called hyperpigmentation.
We can prevent hyperpigmentation by reducing or even stopping this excess melanin production. Licorice root extracts can help with this. They inhibit the activity of the enzyme tyrosinase.
Licorice root extract lessens the stimulation of the enzyme tyrosinase, calming it. Once it is calm, the enzyme stops helping to produce excess melanin.
Glabridin, the compound in licorice root extract, is the one that calms the enzyme.
Sometimes, in the skincare product ingredient list, you might find glabridin listed instead of licorice root extract. If that’s the case, this ingredient fights pigmentation only by inhibiting the tyrosinase enzyme. It doesn’t offer the other benefits of licorice root extract.
2. By dispersing melanin
The excess amount of the pigment melanin can sometimes accumulate in one place. This accumulation results in dark spots or dark areas on the skin.
Liquiritin, the compound in licorice root extract, helps disperse this pigment. It spreads out the melanin more evenly, reducing the uneven skin tone on the face.
3. By reducing inflammation
Inflammation on the skin results in the production of additional melanin. In some people, especially those with darker skin tones, some of this additional melanin is just excess!
This excess melanin has no benefit. It just deposits itself on the skin and results in pigmentation.
This excess melanin production continues until the skin is inflammed. So, to reduce pigmentation, we need to control inflammation.
The inflammation we are talking about here is the inflammation from minor cuts and bruises, acne to some extent and the sun’s UV rays. We are not talking about inflammation from any serious injuries to the skin. Serious injuries cannot be helped by skincare products.
Licorice Root Extract has anti-inflammatory benefits. It reduces inflammation, which then reduces pigmentation.
A few additional notes about Licorice Root Extract
It is effective at around 10%.
Licorice root extract works as an anti-pigment ingredient in 3 different ways. This type of three-way attack on pigmentation is not very common. This makes licorice root extract an effective anti-pigmentation ingredient.
It helps fight pigmentation on the face. It is especially helpful in the under-eye region. The darkness in the under-eye region, which many people experience, is mainly due to inflammation and pigmentation. Since licorice root extract can target both these reasons, it is helpful in the under-eye region.
