Listed below are the side effects of glycolic acid and pointers on how you can avoid these effects:
Glycolic acid’s molecule is the smallest of all the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) used in skincare. Two other commonly used AHAs in skincare are lactic acid and mandelic acid.
Since glycolic acid is so tiny, it can penetrate deeper into the skin than all the other AHAs. This makes it much more effective. It can exfoliate, hydrate, and reduce pigmentation better than the other AHAs, plus it has a whole load of other benefits as well.
But this deeper penetration does come with a side effect. This penetration can irritate the skin. It can cause redness on the skin.
Irritation, if not controlled, will eventually lead to pigmentation.
Darker skin tones react much more quickly to irritation than the lighter skin tones. Even a tiny irritation can very quickly lead to pigmentation.
Irritation from glycolic acid, if not controlled, can easily lead to pigmentation in darker skin-toned people.
If the amount of glycolic acid used in a product is less than 8%, irritation will much less (or no irritation) in darker skin toned people.
If the Glycolic acid content is higher than 8% (and less than 15%), darker skin-toned people must be careful. After applying the glycolic acid product, an anti-inflammatory serum like niacinamide should be used. A good moisturiser should also be used after the serum.
It is recommended that you use a moisturiser rich in anti-inflammatory ingredients. Niacinamide, centella asiatica, calendula, and panthenol are some commonly used anti-inflammatory ingredients.
Even with a product with less than 8% glycolic acid, use a moisturiser with anti-inflammatory ingredients.
There are two types of irritation: visible and invisible.
When irritation is visible, we usually attend to it immediately.
Non-visible irritation is a killer—it silently harms. In this case, the harm is the pigmentation.
So, when we use an ingredient like glycolic acid (especially darker-skinned people), we should always use anti-inflammatory ingredients afterwards…regardless of the percentage of glycolic acid used…irrespective of whether the irritation is visible. This especially holds true for darker-skinned people.
A product with more than 15% glycolic acid can be risky if you have a darker skin tone. It should only be used under professional care.
By darker-skinned people here, I mean all non-whites—people of colour. I am keeping it plain and simple here so it’s easy to understand. I hope I don’t hurt anyone’s feelings by saying this. I am a person of colour. I believe in explaining skin care in simple terms.
If, for example, you are of Indian origin, however, fair-toned, you might consider, in the Indian context, for glycolic acid, you still have a darker skin tone. It is important to remember that otherwise, we might disregard what we need to do when using glycolic acid and, as a result, suffer its side effects.
Glycolic acid offers multiple benefits to the skin.
Don’t say no to it just because you have a darker skin tone. Use it, but be aware of what it can do and take necessary precautions.
Having said that, anything above 15% is risky without proper professional care.
If you have sensitive skin, you should be cautious with glycolic acid.
A reminder that anyone can have sensitive skin: whites, non-whites-anyone.
Using glycolic acid too many times a week can also cause irritation and redness.
Start slow. Start with once a week. Then gradually increase to two times, and if you are super comfortable with it, maybe alternate between two and three times a week.
If you use a niacinamide serum after glycolic acid, ensure it does not have a high percentage of niacinamide. Anything above 5% niacinamide can irritate.
If you are unsure about niacinamide serum, use a good moisturiser with anti-inflammatory ingredients.
Use glycolic acid product in the night time.
Make sure you apply sunscreen the next day. Skin will be tender after glycolic acid use. The effect of the sun’s rays will be more pronounced on the skin.
By the way, wear a sunscreen every day.
