Rosehip oil can help reduce the occurrence of pigmentation, such as dark spots and small patches.
However, it is essential to remember that it is not classified as an anti-pigmentation skincare ingredient. The limitations of rosehip oil for this concern are explained towards the end of this post.
I will start by explaining what causes pigmentation…
What causes dark spots and pigmentation?
The primary cause of pigmentation is inflammation. By pigmentation here, I mean dark spots and patches.
The most common cause of skin inflammation is exposure to the sun’s UV radiation and environmental irritants. This results in the formation of free radicals, which inflame the skin.
Using antioxidants and anti-inflammatory ingredients can help beat or at least reduce inflammation. Antioxidants neutralise free radicals, and anti-inflammatory ingredients reduce inflammation in the skin. Though free radicals are a significant cause of inflammation, they are not the only cause. That’s why we need anti-inflammatory ingredients. Anti-inflammatory ingredients reduce all kinds of inflammation.
Once inflammation is under control, the likelihood of pigmentation is significantly reduced.
How does rosehip oil help fight dark spots and pigmentation patches
Rosehip oil helps in 3 ways:
1. By being antioxidant
Antioxidants neutralise free radicals. Free radicals inflame our skin. Inflammation leads to pigmentation.
2. By being an anti-inflammatory ingredient
Rosehip oil contains anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as phytosterols, linoleic acid, and phenolic compounds. By reducing inflammation, they contribute to reducing the chances of pigmentation.
3. By targeting pigment pathways
As soon as the skin gets inflammed, it produces a pigment called melanin. Often, an excess amount of melanin is produced. The darker your skin tone, the higher the chances of production of an excess amount of melanin.
Though we try to control inflammation by using anti-inflammatory ingredients, if the amount of inflammation exceeds the effect of anti-inflammatory ingredients, which often happens, our skin will start producing excess melanin. Excess melanin is dark in colour. Pigmentation patches and spots are nothing but this excess melanin.
To prevent pigmentation, we must use ingredients that can reduce excess melanin production in addition to anti-inflammatory ingredients. One way ingredients can reduce excess melanin production is by inhibiting the activity of an enzyme called tyrosinase. This enzyme helps produce melanin.
Rosehip oil contains ascorbic acid and all-trans-retinoic acid, which help inhibit the activity of the tyrosinase enzyme.
4. By cell renewal
All-trans-retinoic acid found in rosehip oil can increase the production of new cells. These new cells will then replace the old cells in the top layer of the skin. Old cells fall off, and the new cells replace them.
Some old cells can have an excess amount of melanin stored in them. When these old cells fall off, their excess melanin also goes away. Remember that this excess melanin causes pigmentation.
Limitations of Rosehip Oil
After learning about all the benefits mentioned above, you might assume that rosehip oil is the perfect ingredient for tackling pigmentation. With its numerous benefits and different ways of addressing pigmentation, one might wonder if it’s the ultimate solution to all our pigmentation, dark spots, and melasma concerns.
See, here is what we need to be aware of…
Yes, rosehip oil has multiple ways of addressing pigmentation due to its composition of various ingredients. While this offers multiple benefits, it also comes with a downside. The disadvantage is that rosehip oil contains low concentrations of the necessary ingredients to prevent pigmentation. It consists of small proportions of each of these key ingredients.
It is not classified as a pigmentation-tackling ingredient because it does not have the required amount of any of these ingredients. It is not a substitute for your pigmentation-inhibiting skincare serums.
But still, it is a good addition to your skincare cabinet. Though it does not specialise in a benefit, it offers multiple benefits, albeit all in small proportions. Its varied benefits extend beyond pigmentation. It can also moisturise your skin and help if you have acne-prone skin.
Rosehip oil’s benefits cannot be standardized because it’s a plant oil. We can’t definitively say that every bottle of rosehip oil will offer the same benefits. While they generally provide similar benefits, the intensity of these effects can vary depending on how the oil was extracted and where the plant was grown.