In this post, I will discuss the benefits of glycolic acid for the face and a couple of key effects we need to be cautious about…
What is glycolic acid?
Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA).
A little bit of chemistry. You can skip the following three lines if you are not interested in the chemistry behind what an alpha hydroxy acid is. If you are interested, here is a quick detail: Every acid has a C O OH group, a carbon attached to oxygen and a hydroxy group. Immediately next to this acid (C O OH), if there is another hydroxy group (OH), it is called alpha hydroxy acid. ‘Alpha’ because alpha is the position immediately next to the acid.
Three alpha hydroxy acids are most commonly used in skincare: glycolic, lactic, and mandelic acids.
Glycolic acid is the smallest of the three acids. Its small size enables it to penetrate deeper into the skin’s layers than lactic and mandelic acids, making glycolic acid more potent in skincare. However, it is also more likely to cause skin irritation, which can be avoided with correct usage and proper aftercare.
Keep reading to find out about the benefits glycolic acid offers…
Below, I have listed, in short, the benefits glycolic acid brings to our skin. I have also explained these benefits in detail further below in this post.
1. Exfoliation
Cells from the top layer of the skin have to fall off regularly to make way for younger cells. Some cells fall off on their own, and some don’t.
The cells that don’t fall off cling to each other and form a rough layer on the skin. Over time, this bond between these old cells becomes stronger. This strong adhesion that holds these cells together is called desmosome.
If we don’t intervene and get rid of these cells, over time, more cells accumulate, forming a thick layer, making skin texture uneven and giving skin a dull look.
Exfoliation is the process of removing stubborn old cells that refuse to fall off. Alpha hydroxy acids exfoliate by weakening desmosomes, the strong glue-like bond between these stubborn cells. All three AHAs, glycolic, lactic and mandelic acids, break these bonds and force the old cells clinging to each other to fall off.
This method of exfoliating the skin by breaking the bonds is a gentle way to exfoliate our skin.
If we don’t exfoliate our skin regularly, our skin becomes uneven. The skin looks dull. Skin loses moisture and gradually becomes dehydrated. Skin becomes prone to breakouts.
Exfoliation brightens our skin by removing the thin layer of unwanted cells from the skin’s surface.
While exfoliation can do wonders for our skin, it’s important to remember that moderation is key. Over-exfoliating can lead to skin inflammation, irritation, and hyperpigmentation. By understanding the right balance, we can ensure our skin stays healthy and radiant.
2. Prevents acne and breakouts like pimples and blackheads
Pores are tiny openings in the skin from which hairs emerge, and oil secreted by glands reaches the skin’s surface.
Pores are also where old cells that are supposed to fall but don’t fall off, old hair, dirt, and excess oil accumulate. This junk gradually develops into breakouts like pimples, acne and blackheads.
Removing unwanted cells from the skin’s surface is essential to reduce the chances of these cells clogging the pores and causing breakouts. All three AHAs – lactic, glycolic, and mandelic acids – can effectively cleanse the surface of unwanted cells. However, glycolic acid goes a step further as it can penetrate a bit deeper, getting rid of unwanted cells on their way to the pores and reaching closer to the pores.
3. Hydration
Studies show that glycolic acid increases the hyaluronic acid content in the skin.
Hyaluronic acid keeps skin hydrated. Hydrated skin is soft and plump and reduces the appearance of fine lines. Skin rich in hyaluronic acid also heals better. This is important because the skin is constantly under attack by the sun’s UV rays, allergens, pollution, and other environmental hazards, all of which cause inflammation. Inflammation will eventually lead to dark spots and dark patches on the skin (pigmentation). More hyaluronic acid in the skin means it helps skin heal faster from inflammation. The opposite of this is pigmentation, dehydrated skin and skin prone to breakouts.
4. Anti-ageing / Well-ageing
Glycolic acid also benefits the well-ageing department. “Well-ageing” is the correct phrase, as we all age – so there is no such thing as “anti-ageing.” However, since “anti-ageing” is the most commonly used phrase, I must use that term to help this content reach the right audience. But I use both the terms as that will make me feel a bit less wrong 🙂
Glycolic acid penetrates and reaches the deeper layers of skin and stimulates fibroblasts. Fibroblasts produce collagen. Collagen keeps skin firm. Less collagen means wrinkles and saggy skin. Stimulation of fibroblasts leads to an increase in collagen production.
5. As a primer
Unwanted cells, which are supposed to fall off but do not, form a layer on the skin’s surface. This layer reduces the ability of other skincare products’ ingredients to penetrate and reach the necessary layers to be effective.
Using glycolic acid (or other AHAs) regularly removes that unwanted cell layer, enabling the other ingredients to be effective.
If we don’t exfoliate, we might be using good skincare products, but all that goes to waste as nothing can enter through and benefit the skin. The layer of unwanted cells limits the penetration or, in the worst cases, completely blocks it.
Exfoliating regularly using AHAs can prepare the skin for other skincare ingredients.
But beware, excess exfoliation can make skin dull and prone to breakouts. Moderation is the key!!
Another point to remember about glycolic acid is that, though more effective, it can irritate the skin. Towards the end of this post, I will write a few pointers on using glycolic acid correctly.
Irritation eventually leads to pigmentation, so be cautious with glycolic acid. Don’t ditch it, but use it only up to twice a week. Patch test if you are concerned.
6. Reduces ingrown hair
If the hair on our face curls up and goes back into the pore, this will lead to ingrown hair. So, if you think about it, the curling leads to ingrown hair. Glycolic acid straightens the facial hair. It reduces the chances of hair curling. This reduces the formation of ingrown hair.
7. Reduces pigmentation & brightens
Exfoliation brightens our skin in 2 ways:
Glycolic acid concentrations
Here is an explanation of the effect of different concentrations of glycolic acid:
| Glycolic acid concentration | Level |
|---|---|
| 5% to 7% | Mild |
| 8% to 10% | Moderate |
| Above 10% | Strong |
According to a study published in the National library of medicine, https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7891644/, here are what the different concentrations of glycolic acid can do.
| Glycolic acid concentration | Effect on exfoliation | Effect on collagen levels |
|---|---|---|
| 8% | Moderate | Moderate |
| 10% | Moderate | Moderate |
| 15% | Significant | Moderate |
| 25% | Significant | Significant |
Anything above 15% concentration of glycolic acid is too strong to be administered at home. It should only be administered by a professional.
In some countries, glycolic acid above 10% cannot be purchased over the counter; a prescription is required.
Side effects of glycolic acid
Glycolic acid, though very effective, can irritate our skin, and irritation leads to pigmentation.
People with darker skin tones should be cautious with glycolic acid because the chances of irritation, however small, leading to pigmentation are much higher in darker-skinned people than in people with fairer skin tones. Glycolic acid is very beneficial to the skin, and so it should not be overlooked just because it can irritate…because we can do something about this irritation.
Having said that, if you have rosacea, eczema, or other skin conditions, it is better to avoid glycolic acid.
People with sensitive skin, you can use glycolic acid—but go slow, do a patch test, and always listen to your skin.
Here are a few pointers for all skin tones for using glycolic acid the correct way: